Lensbaby Circular Fisheye

Added another lens to my camera bag.  Years ago, I had an auxiliary fisheye lens (mounted to the primary lens) for my Canon film camera.  Fisheye lenses (optics) create some awesome imaged.  Many of my best were city scapes, looking upward.

E-mail from B&H Photo Video advertised a new fisheye lens from Lensbaby (best known for their tilt-shift lenses).  The lens is available with a Canon mount and priced at $300.00!  (OK, $299.95). Add in free shipping, I could not resist.

 

Some of particulars of the lens:  5.8mm circular fisheye,  aperture f/3.5 - 22,  185 deg view,  manual focus, compatible with APS-C and full frame sensors, focus from 0.25" to infinity.

Late yesterday afternoon, UPS delivered my toys (bought a couple other things while at it).  Had to check out my new lens.  Made a couple test shots in the front yard.

First thing I noticed was that the aperture adjustment is also manual.  It may be that my camera was set up for Aperture Priority. Taking a couple of test shots, the LCD monitor was showing artifacts/flares in the imaged (outside of the base circle).  I did not have this situation with the auxiliary lens. If this is what the specifications call as "creative flare effect" I thinks it detracts to the image.

Thinking that perhaps this might not show in processed image, I loaded my test shots into the computer.  Unfortunately, the "flare" is still there.  Did some research on the Lensbaby web site, all of their example images show the same effect.  It looks like I will need to create a mask for photoshop elements if I want to remove the flare effect.

Being 185 deg view, I need to be careful that my stomach does not show in the bottom of the image. Was a problem with most of my test shots.  The lower photo in the blog is one of my test shots taken yesterday afternoon.

Shooting at the Zoo

It had been nearly 10 years since I visited the Zoo here in Omaha.  Bought a Zoo membership this Winter, figuring to get out when weather is not good for bike riding.  It would also give me a chance to hone my photography skills.

I did not want to overload myself with gear, so only brought my Canon EOS 60D with Tamron 18-200mm lens, a spare battery and cleared SD card.  In my 2 1/2 hour walk in sections of the zoo, I got a good feeling for the versatility of the camera/lens combo.

Desert Dome, March 19, 2014

Canon EOS 60D with Tamron 18-200mm lens  f/8.0 at 1/320 sec  Aperture Priority  22.0mm  ISO 100  Three bracketed exposures (+2.0, 0.0, -2.0 EV) Processed from RAW by HDR Darkroom 2 Pro with finishing with Photoshop Elements 9


A real challenge was shooting in the Aquarium.  Issues with low light, moving subjects, and shooting through glass were on my mind.  I did have some problems, but was still able to get some good shots.

Jelly Fish,  Scott Aquarium,  March 19, 2014

Canon EOS 60D with Tamron 18-200mm lens  f/6.3 at 1/40 sec  Aperture Priority  35.0mm  ISO 3200  Processed from RAW by Adobe Camera Raw and finished with Photoshop Elements 9 

Gorilla, Hubbard Gorilla Valley.  March 19, 2014

Canon EOS 60D with Tamron 18-200mm lens  f/6.3 at 1/60 sec  Aperture Priority  42.0mm  ISO 250  Processed from RAW by Adobe Camera Raw and finished with Photoshop Elements 9

I had started in the Desert Dome but did not take many photos there as much of the dome is under reconstruction.  However, I was able to use the telephoto section of the lens in that dome for the shot below.

 Rabbit/Hare in the Desert Dome,  March 19, 2014

Canon EOS 60D with Tamron 18-200mm lens  f/6.3 at 1/250 sec  Aperture Priority  200.0mm  ISO 400  Processed from RAW by Adobe Camera Raw and finished with Photoshop Elements 9.

All-in-all, it was a successful day scoping out the zoo and verifying equipment needed.  My only disappointment was the Lied Jungle. Since it was a cool day outside and with the humidity in the jungle, I gave up.  It just took too long to get the camera and lens temperature stabilized.  Will have to wait until warmer weather.  Also looking forward shooting some of the flora when they come into bloom.

Camera Setting Errors

As I have been posting photos here on the blog, I have noticed that I have used some strange setting combinations.  If you look at the setting details under the photo, you will see some of them.

I have taken photos with shutter speeds of 1/500,  apertures of F/4.0 and ISO 800, for example.  Shot after shot will be at EV 0.33.  I attribute these from not taking time to properly set the camera and unfamiliarity with the new camera.

Unfamiliarity with the camera is the easier problem to rectify. It just takes time and shooting until it becomes second nature.  With the current kit (body with Tamron 18-200mm lens), the 60D is the camera I use most.

My EOS Rebel T1i has become my back-up camera.  I am considering having my original Rebel converted for IR photography.

Now, as for the settings problems.  A couple things have masked problems with my final photos.  The purchase of the 60D was primarily for the better frame rate for shooting mountain bike race photos.  I set the camera for recording both RAW and L jpg.  I would shoot every rider at basically the same place on the the trail, there were little changes needed.  All I needed to do was to tweak the RAW image and convert to jpg. 

The other photos I take are mostly landscapes.  For landscapes, I prefer bracketed exposures and HDR processing.  The processing software also masks camera setting problems (or should I say "errors").  I can get some damn good results adjusting the sliders in the software.  But, I am sure I could get better results if I took the time a properly set the camera (or at least verified the settings) before taking the shot.

Finally, by taking the time to evaluate the photo and read the EXIF data, I can learn from my mistakes.

Gear for Shooting Mountan Bike Races

Here's my typical kit for shooting mountain bike races - summer. Early season races are a little too cool for shorts.  The kit consists of shorts, belt, drawers, polo shirt, sneakers, socks, and cap.  The camera is my new Canon EOS 60D with Tamron 18-200mm lens.  With this camera set-up, I should be able to shoot all of the race with just one lens and camera.

Previously, I would shoot the start with the original Rebel (6mp) and change to the Rebel T1i for catching the individual racers as the ride the course. Depending on location, I might shoot with the standard (18-55mm) lens or 70-300 telephoto (with 1.6x crop factor). I hope to be able to shoot with just the 18-200mm lens.